Skiing in Cervinia, Italy (for a first time skier)

So I recently went on my first ever sking holiday, as a 27 year old adult who has never skied before.

Ok, disclaimer - I had one lesson the week before I left, on the indoor slopes at Snow Factor Braehead. Although this was really useful in terms of getting a feel for the skis on my feet, learning how to put the boots/skis on and introducing me to the basic concepts of stopping, moving forwards/uphill, it didn't do much to prepare me for the reality of sking. Nothing can really prepare you for this. Once you're out there, on the mountain... it's miles away from anything you've experienced or imagined.

And despite everything people tell you and warn you about, no matter how well prepared you feel you might be, there are certain things you just have to discover for yourself. Here's a shortlist.

20 Things I learned skiing

1. You freeze in places you didn't know you could

"The inside of my nostrils have frozen!" (This is a weirdly enjoyable feeling)

2. Helmet hair is a real concern. As is post-mask face.

Wearing the helmet and mask is totally fine, if you like to feel like you're being suffocated. Takes some getting used to...

3. But ski gear is surprisingly fashionable.

4. Walking/moving in ski boots is HARD. 

And try carrying skis and poles at the same time, whilst wearing about 50 layers of clothing. Potentially a bigger struggle than the actual skiing.

5. Apres-ski is more amazing than you imagined it would be.

6. Carbs, carbs and then some more carbs....

7. You will fall over. A lot. You might have to get mountain rescued.

Tip: If you do happen to fall and actually injure yourself (especially your knee) don't try to be a hero and go out on the slopes again. Twice. (This will result in an embarrassing ride on the 'ski doo' followed by an even more embarrassing knee brace/bionic woman attachment)

8. Your ski instructor will be near-impossible to understand

"Ski more parallel!" is not the most helpful advice for a beginner...

9. Every ski school group will have one unbearably annoying member 

They will hold everyone else up, have tantrums and constantly tell you you're doing it wrong. 

10. Limoncello. Boozy hot chocolates. Tiramisu. And repeat.

11. Every part of you will hurt, everywhere. All the time.

Alcohol helps to ease the pain

12. Walking home up the steepest hill of all time back to your apartment is a lot easier when you're drunk and singing loudly to an 'Independent Women' playlist.

13. You might see Bonnie Tyler.

(Or, loudly sing the lyrics to 'Total Eclipse of the Heart' walking past the apartment she's rumoured to be staying at at 2 in the morning...)

14. You learn to eat fast before your food instantly freezes

(beer stays cold for longer, though!)

15. You might play this game...

16. Don't be dramatic on the ski lift

It's not helpful.

17. The scenery will take your breath away

18. Ski shot, anyone?

 

19. You might see some wildlife on the mountain. 

Your instructor will point out a mountain goat like animal called a chamois - you'll have no idea what this is and it's too far away to see but you'll get SO excited, take a million pictures and tell everyone about your 'wildlife sighting'.

20. You'll have the best time and leave feeling physically, emotionally, mentally (and financially) drained. But in the best way!

So, to conclude.. 

Alcohol, food, pain, emotional trauma, amazing scenery, ski fam bonding.

Is it worth it?

A resounding yes. It was one of the best holidays I've had and an experience I will never forget. Already planning next year's trip! 

If you're interested, the resort I went to was Breuil-Cervinia and our accommodation was Residence Cervinia Due. We flew from London to Turin and the transfer took about an hour and a half (with whisky it felt less than that.)

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Three days in Venice

Venice - the city of waterways, masks and canal bridges has always intrigued me. It sounded like a place from another time, even another world... and it definitely feels that way when you're there.

Since it was high on my travel list and my bucket list for 2018, I was glad when I got the chance to spend three days there at the end of January. Here are my top ten highlights.

1. St Mark's Square and Basilica (Piazzo San Marco)
An obvious choice for any first time visit to Venice, but the basilica of St Mark's really does take your breath away. Those horses! When we first arrived late on the Monday night the square was shrouded in mist which gave it such an eerie, mystical quality.

2. Glass blowing demonstration in Murano
Our three islands boat trip was a definite highlight, and our first stop was the island of Murano. Famous for its glass making (the industry moved here from Venice when a law was introduced permitting open fires. As a result, Murano is now sometimes referred to as 'fire island'.)

We were lucky enough to visit a glass making factory and museum to see a live demonstration, where 'Maestro' whipped up a beautiful vase tinged with red (the most expensive colour in Murano glass) and a prancing horse. Both seemed utterly perfect, and were created freehand using pliers in a matter of minutes. It was amazing to watch.

Afterwards you get the chance to visit the factory shop, where you can take some Murano glass home. Beware - the prices are far higher here than the other shops right next door and throughout the island. We learned the hard way! Still. there are some beautiful pieces on offer. Since we had limited luggage space we chose some jewellery. I picked a clear, sparkling half moon pendant to remind me of my trip.

3. The rainbow island of Burano
Our second stop on the boat tour was Burano. It might have been the most beautiful little town I've ever seen. The houses, shops and trattorias were all painted in the brightest blues, pinks, greens and oranges - colours reflecting into the water of the canals which snaked through the streets.

We wandered through the town and took a lot of photos (it is the most 'instragrammable' place) and enjoyed the peace and quiet. January is a good time to go - I can imagine it would heaving with tourists in the summer months. Perhaps the top highlight of my entire trip, Burano is well worth a visit even for a short stay in Venice.

4. Harry's Bar (and not Harry's Bar)
We'd heard from friends that Harry's Bar by St Mark's Bay waterfront was an institution worth visiting. Opened in 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani, famed birthplace of the Bellini, the bar was a favourite for the rich and famous. Once frequented by Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and Orson Welles, and more recently the likes of Woody Allen and Nicole Kidman.

This was enough to get us in the door (after a bottle of wine with dinner to convince us it was a great idea). It's definitely a luxurious experience. Although the interior of the bar itself is fairly underwhelming, the service by tuxedo-clad waiters who bring you delicious nibbles on platters to accompany your drinks is quite something. Said drinks were very expensive - 18 euros for a brandy was heart-attack material for a pair of Glasgow girls. After making friends with an American English couple at the neighbouring table, we stumbled across a lively little bar a hop, skip and canal bridge over which was doing prosecco by the glass for two euros. A much better arrangement!

5. Aperitivo by the Rialto
Admittedly a very touristy experience, I thoroughly enjoyed our 4pm aperol spritzes (at discounted rates) by the canal, right next the Rialto bridge. Nothing quite beats watching the hustle and bustle around the famous Venitian landmark as we sipped our drinks, nibbled on our aperitivo snacks and then swiftly ordered another round! The ideal way to unwind after a day of sightseeing, before heading out for dinner later in the evening.

6. Dinner at Vino Vino
Following a recommendation from our hotel receptionist (who also informed us we wouldn't find good pizza in Venice - turns out this is because there aren't any pizza ovens in the city. See previous law regarding open fires) we headed to Vino Vino, a firm favourite with tourists and resident Venetians alike.

I had pasta carbonara (authentically Italian, cooked only with pancetta, parmigiana and egg) and my mum the lasagna. Both were exquisite - washed down with a bottle of regional red wine which accompanied our meal perfectly.

7. Canal side lunch
Continuing with the food theme - our lunch the next day was equally good. We walked for an hour or so to find the perfect place (I was determined to eat at a canal side location) and finally stumbled across a little trattoria with tables by the window.

We dined on bruschetta while we watched the endless gondolas lazily drifting past, and enjoyed our last glass of wine to celebrate the end of our holiday. Very good, and very inexpensive too (if you don't mind searching for a while!)

8. Lorenzo Quinn's hands sculpture
On our way to see the Ca' d'Oro (an impressive structure on the grand canal which now houses a museum) we stumbled across some giant hands rising out of the water.

Support by Lorenzo Quinn is a monumental installation at the Ca'Sagredo Hotel (which is, incidentally, also worth a visit - we stopped here for a very fancy coffee, unrivaled views of the Grand Canal, and the sculpture in all its glory). The sculpture is meant to be a warning of the threat to cities like Venice due to rising sea levels, It serves as a reminder of our role as humans to help make a positive impact on history and our environment.

9. The Museum of Music (Museo della Musica)
One of the best things about Venice is the way you can stumble across some real gems without even trying. On our last day we found this great little museum (which was also free - a rarity in Venice) and home to an expansive collection of old and beautiful musical instruments.

10. Shopping in Venice
Last on my list may seem like an obvious one - but I had to include shopping. Anyone who's been to Italy before will already be familiar with the juxtaposition of high and low end stores, quality goods and tacky souvenirs creating a harmonious retail experience.

I picked up some real finds - the leather goods are of course, second to none and I couldn't leave Venice without Murano glass souvenirs (and a glittery Venetian mask or two!).

If I had the money, perusing the rows of beautiful designer stores, Italian houses in particular (Dolce and Gabanna was like a palace) would be the dream! Until that day comes (which I'm confident it will) I was satisfied with taking in some of the wonderful window displays as we strolled round the streets.

So, was there anything I didn't manage to do?

I feel like I definitely managed to do and see quite a lot in three days here. However I would definitely return - I'd love to come back during the famous annual carnival, and to see an opera.

Venice was even more enchanting than I expected, and confirmed by love of all things Italian. I can't wait to return to my favourite part of the world again next month.

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Wine Tasting and Italian Carnevale

If you've read my previous blog on my weekend trip to Rome, you'll know I had an excellent first few days in the Eternal City thanks to The Roman Guy.

What made the weekend for me, though, was our Sunday day trip to the town of Frascati, just twenty minutes outside Rome. This charming little place played host to us for the day as we took part in The Old Frascati Wine Tour, followed by an afternoon of Italian Carnevale fun!

We were greeted at Frascati train station by our wonderful guide Dominique, who took us on a tour of the town. We visited the local bakery where Nonna Rosanna is still baking at 90 years old! She told us she owes her vitality to the air in the hills, a good Roman diet (and a cigarette every day!) Here, we sampled melt-in-the mouth porchetta (slow roasted pork) in freshly baked bread. We washed it down with a glass of local wine - it was to be the first of many! Dominique assured us that 'breakfast wine' was totally a thing here. The 'jug wine' we tried at a local shop was 14% and very rustic!  
Next, we were taken by car to the beautiful vineyard, one of the oldest family run wineries in Frascati - set in a sunken valley which is gets the perfect amount of sunlight and moisture from the morning mist in the hills. We were shown around and learned about the wine making process - even getting a chance to visit the deep wine cave which dates back to Ancient Rome.

Soon, it was time to sample some of these wares! We headed upstairs in the 14th century farmhouse where we tried each of the wines: red and white, accompanied by fresh bread and olive oil. Interestingly, I enjoyed the taste of the red wine which had been chilled! It was a new experience for me but I could definitely imagine sipping it on a balmy Summer's evening.

We finished our vineyard tour outside, soaking up the afternoon sunshine and sampling the sweet dessert wine, which was served with cookies. Then, we returned back into the centre of Frascati for a glorious lunch of pasta, olives, bread and meats. All washed down with the delicious wine! 

Fully fed, we ventured to the town square where we were delighted to find the Carnevale in full swing! 

Frascati has definitely stolen my heart and I can't wait to return one day. It's amazing that such a tranquil place exists so close to the hustle of Rome! The Old Frascati Wine Tour is a must-do if you're visiting - an authentic Italian experience which I'm still dreaming about even now... 

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